Every Neighborhood Needs a Mekelburg’s
Grub Street
by Jeremy Rellosa
14h ago
Photo: Jeremy Rellosa Mekelburg’s is a business that does not fit neatly into a single category: It’s known for its babkas, on display at the front of its gourmet food shop. It’s also a sandwich spot (the porchetta, fried chicken, and Whiz-laden cheesesteaks are standouts) and a place to grab a beer on the way home from the G train. It’s a bakery, a grocery, and a pub. Situated in the basement of an apartment building on Grand Avenue, its red storefront lanterns match the Scalamandre zebra-print wallpaper inside. Beyond the back bar area is a courtyard with picnic tables, which feels like the ..read more
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Lucia of Avenue X Expands With a Soho Alimentari
Grub Street
by Chris Crowley
2d ago
Salvatore Carlino inside Lucia Alimentari.Photo: Matthew Gordon In 2017, Salvatore Carlino was living in Berlin, making techno, and running his own label, E-Missions. He’d grown up in Manhattan Beach, east of Coney Island, and was raised in the family pizzeria, Papa Leone’s, in nearby Sheepshead Bay. For a while, he’d thought he’d take it over and simply keep it running — “another 40 years” — but when his parents decided to retire, he took the leap across the Atlantic. There, a tight budget brought him back into cooking. “Typical starving-artist shit,” he says. When the pandemic hit ..read more
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Pastry Chef Caroline Schiff Will Leave Gage & Tollner
Grub Street
by Ella Quittner
3d ago
Schiff rose to national prominence at the Brooklyn chophouse.Photo: Lanna Apisukh A couple of Monday mornings ago, Caroline Schiff answered the door to her Fort Greene home wearing a vodka-sauce-colored cardigan and jeans. Her eyeliner was perfectly symmetrical. Her hair had been pinned up in the topknot chignon she’s known for, which mimics the swoop of the Baked Alaska she made famous at Gage & Tollner. Upstairs, in her fourth-floor apartment, she swooshed a scoop of sourdough starter (named for Edna Lewis) across a skillet. She tossed dill, radishes, and arugula in vinaigrette. She frie ..read more
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At Lola’s, a Chef’s Chef Strikes Out on Her Own
Grub Street
by Joshua David Stein
3d ago
Carrot masala yogurt with naan at Lola’s.Photo: Hugo Yu Even among the culinarily inclined, Suzanne “Suzy” Cupps stays under the radar. Mention her to industry folks and they will offer an admiring nod plus the highest praise a chef can muster: “Yeah, she can cook.” She is best known as the executive chef of Untitled at the Whitney, Danny Meyer’s arty eatery, and the short-lived 232 Bleecker, a sit-down concept from the lunch chain Dig that closed during the pandemic. To fund her new restaurant, Lola’s, she turned to former regulars. “We raised $1 million in $20,000 increments,” she says. “No ..read more
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Where to Slurp Shurpa at 1 A.M.
Grub Street
by Tammie Teclemariam
3d ago
Photo: Hugo Yu A late-night scene has emerged in Midwood, scattered between Kensington’s Little Pakistan and Little Odessa in Brighton Beach. The hours are in part designed to accommodate the area’s many Uber drivers; it helps that much of Uzbekistan’s food — dumplings, rice, noodles, plenty of meat — is the kind of straightforward, hearty cooking that tastes great around midnight. At the months-old Chayhana on Kings Highway, owner Kamol Raupov’s recipes come from his family, which has been in the food business for generations: bowls of chewy lagman noodles, platters of grilled beef and lamb s ..read more
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Greta Caruso Is Making Up for Her No-Candy Childhood
Grub Street
by Emma Alpern
3d ago
Caruso with her popcorn and Twin Snakes.Photo: Maanvi Kapur When Greta Caruso launched her Substack, The Green Spoon, with Fanny Singer in November, the two friends, who both have backgrounds in the worlds of cooking and sustainable food (Caruso co-founded the delivery service Good Eggs and is a board member at the Edible Schoolyard Project), had been swapping family-oriented recipes for months. “We had kids within a month of each other in 2022,” Caruso says. “It initially started as a long text message where we would ask, like, ‘What are you making today? This worked; this didn’t work.’” Now ..read more
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Corima Has Potential — and Excellent Tortillas
Grub Street
by Matthew Schneier
3d ago
Photo: Hugo Yu I had always thought of chile con queso as a Texas dish until the first time I went to Chihuahua,” the Mexican-food expert Diana Kennedy once wrote. Many of the staples of American Mexican food — not to mention Tex-Mex — have their origins just over the border. Quesadillas, burritos: They come from the north, which makes sense, as northern Mexico is the land of wheat and the flour tortilla. But as Fidel Caballero, the El Paso–born, Chihuahua-raised chef and owner of the recently opened Corima, told Eater, “It’s not just about burritos, my friend.” The restaurant, which began lif ..read more
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The Best Thing I’ve Eaten in Months Costs Just $10
Grub Street
by Tammie Teclemariam
3d ago
What $10 well spent looks like.Photo: Hugo Yu Nawabi Bhoj, in Bed-Stuy, is only a few months old, but Nisad Mohammed, who opened the Bengali restaurant with his two older brothers, has known this stretch of Fulton Street for his entire life: “My dad’s grocery,” which he opened after immigrating from Bangladesh in the ’80s, “used to be this fish store right here, then we moved a few stores down over there by the Shake Shack,” he says. One block over is the location of a different, bigger supermarket they owned until recently. “My father has been in that neighborhood for so long that everybody k ..read more
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The $9.5 Million Hangover
Grub Street
by James D. Walsh
3d ago
Photo: New York Magazine; Photos: @okbizwine/Instagram; Getty Images This article was featured in One Great Story, New York’s reading recommendation newsletter. Sign up here to get it nightly. The dinner cost $7,250 a plate, but that isn’t what Krešimir Penavić remembers about the evening. What Penavić recalls is, first, the wine: four rare bottles from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, the estate worshiped by oenophiles around the world. And, second, meeting Omar Khan, the man seated across from him, who was larger than life in every sense. “In his mass, in his voice, in his appetite, in his ..read more
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How Do You Get Into the Secret Club Under Jean’s?
Grub Street
by Zach Schiffman
3d ago
Customers waiting at Jean’s.Photo: Zach Schiffman The restaurant Jean’s feels like it’s been beamed onto Lafayette Street from several different eras: The vibe is late-’90s clubstaurant, the food is mid-aughts farm to table, and the dessert is an oversize cookie that feels like it was made for 2016 Instagram fame. With so much going on, the question that most people have about the spot, owned by Max Chodorow (son of Jeffrey), is: How do you get into the subterranean club underneath the dining room? The common wisdom has it that the move is to show up around ten, grab a burger and a cookie, and ..read more
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