Rachel Roddy’s recipe for mushroom and taleggio lasagne | A kitchen in Rome
The Guardian | Italian food and drink
by Rachel Roddy
3d ago
A cheesy, mushroomy five-layer lasagne that is both sumptuous and just plain satisfying A month ago I bought myself a stainless-steel oven tray. Not only was it the last one in the shop, but it was also the last of a size that was soon to be discontinued. Not that I needed further convincing of my need for this splendid, functional tray. It was only as I carried it home, with the bottom of the carrier bag bumping against my ankles, that it crossed my mind it might not fit in our oven. It didn’t. And not by a fraction, either: it was as much as 30cm too long and deep enough for 10 layers of pas ..read more
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Rukmini Iyer’s quick and easy recipe for roast red pepper orrechiette with pistachios and ricotta | Quick and easy
The Guardian | Italian food and drink
by Rukmini Iyer
1w ago
Ear-shaped pasta in a roast red pepper and tomato sauce and topped with pistachios and ricotta This dish is a happy accident. I first made the sauce to accompany roast potatoes, with muhammara in mind (a delicious Middle Eastern dip of roast red pepper, walnuts and pomegranate molasses). But I had no walnuts, so used pistachios instead. The result is addictive and it has since become a go-to; it works just as well tossed through pasta as it does with grilled prawns or roast potatoes. You could use crumbled feta instead of ricotta to top the pasta, but I like that the ricotta doesn’t compete wi ..read more
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Rachel Roddy’s recipe for rubbish spaghetti | A kitchen in Rome
The Guardian | Italian food and drink
by Rachel Roddy
1w ago
A thrifty yet irresistible Neapolitan dish of tomatoes, nuts, raisins, capers and olives, all sweated down in lots of olive oil and tossed through a tangle of spaghetti ’E Curti is a small, very good osteria in a town called Sant’Anastasia, which is perched on the slopes of Vesuvius about 13km north-east of Naples. We made a detour and stopped there two summers ago, thanks to the trusty Slow Food osteria guide (although no thanks to my navigating). One of the specialities at ’E Curti is spaghetti with dried nuts and fruit, capers, olives, herbs and a local variety of tomatoes called pomodori p ..read more
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Poppy O’Toole’s secret ingredient – ’nduja
The Guardian | Italian food and drink
by Interview by Holly O'Neill
1w ago
Fry eggs and cubed potatoes in this Italian pork paste for a spicy brunch, or toss vegetables in it for an umami hit ’Nduja is a spicy cured pork paste from Calabria in Italy and I always have it in the fridge. You can buy it in a chunk, like a sausage, or sometimes in a jar. It’s a lovely way to add a rich heat to dishes. Often I’ll start with the ’nduja and fry it off, then use the fat as a way to cook other things. Fry it so you get that lovely red fat, then cook your eggs in that. Or I like to add cubed potatoes, to make what Americans might call home fries. That’s a proper brunch ..read more
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Hot chocolate to soothe a troubled soul
The Guardian | Italian food and drink
by Annalisa Barbieri
1w ago
A difficult day is eased with a bun, nice stationery and a big glass of thick hot chocolate I am in London and I have just done a very hard thing. I take time to decompress and regroup at Honey & Co’s relatively new Bloomsbury branch, opposite which there is a Honey & Co Pop Up branch whence, just before Christmas, I got a delicious bar of their (seasonal) Honey & Spice chocolate made by Bare Bones. This time I am here to eat a Bloomsbury bun (orange blossom, almonds) and drink a coffee while I take in the early-morning London scenes and look at the shiny-with-rain pavements. Every ..read more
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Beyond wine: unexpected bottles from diversifying producers
The Guardian | Italian food and drink
by David Williams
1w ago
Gin, vermouth and olive oil from makers and vineyards best known for their table wines Mirabeau Rosé Gin, France (£27, Waitrose) Earlier this month the Fladgate Partnership, the family firm behind some of the biggest and best names in port (Taylor’s, Fonseca, Croft), launched their new table wine division in the UK. The new wines, in shops later this year, are rather impressive, but what’s made them such a talking point in the British wine trade is what they represent. Fladgate, after all, was one of the last of the top-flight port producers to resist a move into unfortified wine. The Fladgate ..read more
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I didn’t eat proper risotto till I was nearly 30. And now drought may take it off menus for ever | Rachel Cooke
The Guardian | Italian food and drink
by Rachel Cooke
1w ago
Just as Britain gets the hang of cooking risotto, its future has been thrown into doubt I know, I know. How peak middle class to make mention of a risotto crisis; don’t most of us have enough on our plates already without getting worked up about the cost of posh rice to boot? But at the risk of impaling myself with my own privilege – there it goes, clean through my Toast linen apron like an expensive Japanese knife – I’m going to jump in anyway, truffle grater in hand (I’m joking, I don’t own a truffle grater). The bad news is that hard times lie ahead for Italian rice, and while I think this ..read more
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Rachel Roddy’s recipe for Puglian rice, potato and mussel bake, or tiella | A kitchen in Rome
The Guardian | Italian food and drink
by Rachel Roddy
2w ago
A layered bake of potatoes, risotto rice, cheese and mussels that will leave your kitchen smelling like the sea Leafing through Luigi Sada’s book of La Cucina Pugliese, I couldn’t find riso, patate e cozze (rice, potatoes and mussels). I was looking for rice dishes in primi piatti, lost in the countless, great-sounding recipes for mussels and other shellfish from the heel of Italy – in short, the wrong chapter. This layered bake of rice, sliced potatoes, tomatoes, cheese and mussels is the first recipe in the chapter titled Les Soupes (oddly, in French). Sada crowns riso, patate e cozze, also ..read more
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Rukmini Iyer’s quick and easy baked gnocchi with mozzarella recipe | Quick and Easy
The Guardian | Italian food and drink
by Rukmini Iyer
3w ago
Weeknight heaven: throw blanched gnocchi, cherry tomatoes and peppers in a roasting tin, cover with sliced mozzarella and within half an hour you’ll have yourself a panful of gooey, crisp goodness Can you have too many recipes for crisp gnocchi? I think not, especially given what a cinch it is. This is an amalgamation of two favourite dishes from my Roasting Tin books, and it’s a total winner on a cold night. Don’t bother with upmarket mozzarella in water for this dish – you want the firm, melty cooking stuff that browns beautifully on top ..read more
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Rachel Roddy’s recipe for cauliflower, potato and mint fritters | A kitchen in Rome
The Guardian | Italian food and drink
by Rachel Roddy
3w ago
These sprightly, mint-infused fritters are great straight from the pan, but taste even funkier after a rest of 20 minutes or so Walking home the other afternoon, I passed a car with a weed growing around one of its tyres. I found myself stopping, so I looked to see where the weed started and where it ended – it went almost all the way around it, like a snow chain. It was only when I was right down near the tyre, surrounded by the smell of weed and rubber, that I realised I had done exactly the same thing during the first lockdown. Not with the same car, but one similar – which, like so many ca ..read more
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